Hot Tips & Hot Licks News

Hill Guides' Hot Tips & Hot Licks occasionally brings you the latest news on restaurant openings, closings, and new menus and specials; new wines and wineries; and all the latest musical chairs moves of chefs and winemakers throughout the wine regions of the West Coast of the United States and Canada.

Our six Hill Guides include Sonoma Valley, Napa Valley, Monterey & Carmel (including Santa Cruz County), Santa Barbara & the Central Coast (including Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo Counties), Northwest Wine Country (Oregon, Washington, British Columbia, and Idaho), and Victoria & Vancouver Island. --Kathleen & Gerald Hill

Hot News
(February 11, 2006)

Sonoma Valley:
When we moved to Sonoma, California thirty years ago from San Francisco via Mill Valley, Sonoma was still a smallish town, with lots of yummy Italian influence, and not much going on.  As a Berkeley native, I often felt as if I had to create my own excitement, as if raising two then tiny and perfect children and writing occasionally weren’t enough!

No longer.  Now we have Sonoma’s second-born film festival, Sonoma Valley Olive Festival, Cinema Epicuria, a new Sonoma Jazz +, Salute to the Arts, Vintage Festival, the Vintners’ & Growers’ Wine Auction, art auctions, and seasonal wine region promotion events.  All of these are wide open to locals and visitors who can afford occasionally pricey tickets, and some events connected to all of these are free or close to it.

Big news for the Sonoma Valley Film Festival: Entertainment Weekly has just agreed to sponsor the 2006 film festival.  The biggest publication in the industring Entertainment weekly sponsors only the best: Sundance, Telluride, Tribeca, Toronto, and now Sonoma Valley.

Interested in the “Epicuria” part of the Cinema Epicuria film festival, we discovered that Sonoma’s own Christopher Sawyer of Carneros Bistro & Wine Bar at The Lodge at Sonoma will serve as the first ever sommelier for a film festival.  Featuring local wines and foods distinguishes Cinema Epicuria from the myriad of other film festivals around the country. (See sidebar for listing of wines to be served at Cinema Epicuria events.)

Next weekend's VinOlivo event, put on by Sonoma Valley Vintners & Growers Alliance and the Sonoma Valley Visitors Bureau's Olive Festival at The Lodge at Sonoma, includes wine tastings from Audelssa Estate Winery, Benziger, B.R. Cohn, Chateau St. Jean, Charles Creek, Cline Cellars, Colin Lee, Deerfield Ranch, GlenLyon, Gloria Ferrer, Haywood, Kunde, Larson Family, Ledson, Little Family Vineyards (their name, not their size), Moon Mountain, Navillus Birney, Nicholson Ranch, Parmelee-Hill, Petroni, Ravenswood, Robledo, St. Francis, Ty Caton, Valley of the Moon, VJB, and Wellington.

Food tastes will arrive at The Lodge from Sonoma Meritage Martini & Oyster Bar, Swiss Hotel, girl & the fig, El Dorado Kitchen, Carneros Bistro, Plaza Bistro, Sheana Davis's Epicurean Connection, Mary's Pizza Shack, Red Grape, Gramma's Cal-Italia Restaurant, Fiorini Cakes & Cookies, Olive & Vine Catering, Maya, and Saddles Steakhouse.
(January 31, 2005)

Charles Creek Vineyard owners Bill and Gerry Brinton have actually opened their Charles Creek Vineyard Tasting Room and Gallery at 483 First Street West in the location that previously housed Legends gifts and next to the now-closed Sonoma Saveurs, a site many old timers knew as Steiner’s bar, now up the street in a former bank building.

The Brintons bought the winery of former Sonoma County Supervisor Mike Cale, who resigned that position and moved to Florida “for health reasons,” leading to the appointment of Valerie Brown by then-Governor Gray Davis.  Charles Creek’s 2002 Las Patolitas Chardonnay won the Best of Class gold Medal at the 2004 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Comptetition.

Another excellent reason to venture into the new Charles Creek Tasting Room and Gallery, even if you don’t drink wine, is to see the artwork. Opening exhibitors include Brian Andreas, Jessica Dunne, Carol Kelley, Keith Wicks, and Don H. Williams.  The tasting room’s winter hours are 11:00 a.m.-6:00 p.m. Thursday-Monday.

Girl & the fig owner Sondra Bernstein and Executive Chef John Toulze have hit the big time again!  Bernstein and Toulze have been invited by California’s Hospice du Rhone founders John Alban, Mat Garretson, and Vicki Caroll to travel to France’s Rhone Valley and prepare a multi-course lunch at the region’s premier wine event, the Rhone Decouvertes, where they will pair California Rhone wines with their menu, kicking off a week’s events throughout the Rhone Valley.  Since its opening in 1997, the girl & the fig has been known for its award-winning “Rhone-Alone” wine list.


Napa Valley:
Events to watch for:  Napa Valley Mustard Festival Worldwide Mustard Competition Awards Ceremony and Mustard Recipe Competition at COPIA, Napa (March 11, 7:00 p.m.) Call 944-1133; Taste of Yountville (March 19, 11:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m.) Call 944-0904.

Justin Siena High School 5th Annual Wine Auction of rare wine lots, trips, and winemaker dinners at Trefethen Winery, Napa (April 9, 2005).

Design Your Garden!-Part I with COPIA Head Gardener Colby Eierman (April 30) and Part II (May 7), 10:30 a.m.-12 noon, Napa.  Call 259-1600 for more information.
More events:
Sonoma Jazz Festival’s wine and culinary events around the Plaza (May 27-May 28).
Veggie Garden Notes: Sonoma Mission Gardens still has some bare root berries and fruit trees—hurry before they start to flower.  Tomatoes are coming in next week, but only for greenhouse owners or window counters because we still could have a hard frost before April 15.  Renunculas and primulas or primroses are a good buy.  Citrus trees will be in for large pots or to plant in the ground in a couple of weeks.  I’m planting some more garlic, lettuces, and parsleys this weekend.
 Farmers’ Market News:  Several vendors have lovely Japanese-looking tree blossoms for arrangements, and healthy dark leaf veggies are warming up and available.
 Enjoy!
Send recipes, wine, people, and food tidbits to hilltopub@aol.com or call 938-8110. Kathleen Hill is co-author with Gerald Hill of Sonoma Valley-The Secret Wine Country.  The Hills host “Traveling With the Hills-A Program of Travel, Food, and Wine” Thursdays at 5:00 p.m. and “Look Who’s Here” Mondays at 5:00 p.m. on KSVY, 91.3 FM.

The city mothers and fathers of Carmel, California just rejected $40,000 raised to help the fire department by 12 local women who dared to sacrifice their bodies and pose nude for a civic calendar. City officials said they would not accept the desparately needed funds because it might offend someone if they did. Really!

Carmel earlier banned women from wearing "high heels" on city streets for their own protection. That would be protection from lumpy sidewalks due to beautiful old trees' roots.

Rescinded in 1986 by Mayor Clint Eastwood, Carmel once banned people from eating ice cream cones on downtown streets, which resulted in the closing of a favorite ice cream store.

In December, 2004, Carmel's City Council restricted art galleries to 100

(January 30, 2005)

San Francisco Chronicle's Top 100 Wines for 2005
Below is today's released Top 100 Wines for 2005 from the San Francisco Chronicle. Notice the wide geographic range of the top 100 wines. Our Hill Guides cover most of these wineries with biographies of winemakers, other wines they make, how many cases they produce annually, how to get to the wineries, and where to eat and enjoy other pleasures in the neighborhood.

White Wines

Sparkling 1995 Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Carneros Royal Cuvee ($22) An excellent sparkler, with spiced pear, Golden Delicious apple, yeast, toast and mineral aromas and flavors. Creamy and rich, with a long finish. 1994 Iron Horse Green Valley Blanc de Blancs ($34) Very complex, with date, rum, apricot and bread-dough aromas and apple, lime and apricot flavors. The finish is biscuity and smooth. NV Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut ($22) A lean, zesty bubbly that offers creamy peach, citrus and nut aromas and flavors and hints of mineral. Lively bubbles lead to a clean finish. 1999 Schramsberg California Blanc de Blancs ($30) A bright, elegant bubbly with a pineapple, lemon meringue and roasted hazelnut nose and flavors of green apple and citrus. Rich and creamy, with firm acidity.

Riesling 2003 Chateau Ste. Michelle Eroica Columbia Valley Riesling ($20) Beautifully balanced, with stony, earthy aromas and a palate of apricot, apple, mineral and spice. 2003 Fess Parker Santa Barbara County White Riesling ($12) A generous wine with citrus, fresh peach, dried apricot and spice aromas and flavors. A fine pre-meal sipper. 2003 J. Lohr Bay Mist Monterey County White Riesling ($8) An outstanding, easy-drinking wine that offers extraordinary value. Smells of rose petal, peach and honeysuckle, with flavors of apple, lime, citrus and spice.

Pinot Gris/Grigio 2002 Adelsheim Oregon Pinot Gris ($16) Clean, ripe apple, melon, fig and mineral aromas and flavors mix with a slight herbal character. Tangy acidity on the long finish. 2003 Estancia California Pinot Grigio ($14) Light, zesty lemon-rind nose with a touch of mineral leads to racy flavors of lime, kiwi fruit, strawberry and stone. It's light and crisp, with a hint of spritz. 2003 J Russian River Valley Pinot Gris ($18) Attractive and loaded with fresh apple, pear, melon and nectarine flavors and minerality for complexity. 2002 Lange Willamette Valley Pinot Gris ($12) Fresh and lively, with pretty lime, spiced apple, mineral and floral aromas and flavors. It's crisp, complex and intense. 2002 MacMurray Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Gris ($20) A touch of spice on the nose leads to generous melon, apricot, grapefruit, mineral and honey flavors. Nicely balanced and with a long finish.

Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Ceago Vinegarden Kathleen's Vineyard Mendocino County Sauvignon Blanc ($16) Aromas of lime, tropical fruit, thyme and matchstick lead to flavors of lime, kiwi fruit, melon and fennel. Snappy acidity. 2003 Mason Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($16) Pretty floral nose with bright citrus, grass, herb and vanilla notes. Soft and lush, with a rich core of orange, lemon, apricot and kiwifruit and a lively finish. 2003 Patianna Mendocino County Sauvignon Blanc ($16) Made in a rich, ripe style, with fresh apple, pear, melon, citrus, grapefruit rind and hay aromas and flavors. Closes with a hint of clove and beautiful acidity. 2003 Rochioli Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($24) Lean and alive with fresh-cut grass and crisp grapefruit and lemon flavors, with hints of wet stone and laserlike acidity. 2003 Rutherford Grove Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($14) Good value for its honeysuckle and tropical-fruit nose and flavors of pineapple, banana, grapefruit, herb and vanilla. The finish is long and grassy. 2003 St. Supery Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($18) Lively and fresh, as Sauvignon Blanc should be, with spice, grass, ripe tropical fruit and gooseberry aromas and flavors, with hints of herbs and vanilla. A panel favorite. 2003 Wildhurst Reserve Lake County Sauvignon Blanc ($11) Pungent, herbal style with refreshing kiwi fruit, guava and grass aromas and zesty gooseberry, grapefruit and lemon flavors. Good value.

Chardonnay 2001 Beaulieu Vineyard Reserve Carneros Chardonnay ($28) Aromas and flavors of apple, pear, honeydew melon, creme brulee and lemon zest, with hints of mineral on a crisp finish. 2002 Chateau St. Jean Sonoma County Chardonnay ($14) Spiced apple and caramel nose with flavors of apricot, apple, pear and citrus. It's juicy, clean, long and fairly priced. 2002 Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Columbia Valley Chardonnay ($18) Subtle apple and banana aromas lead to a zesty palate of apple, pear, pineapple, lemon, mint and citrus. The finish is soft yet lingering. 2001 MacRostie Wildcat Mountain Carneros Chardonnay ($30) Apple pie aroma with cinnamon; similar flavors plus ripe mango, citrus and mineral. Fleshy and big, with a juicy finish. 2002 Morgan Rosella's Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay ($34) A toasty, buttery nose gives way to a richly fruited (baked apple, pear), spicy palate. A powerful wine, yet it retains the right balance of fruit and oak. 2002 Newton Unfiltered Napa Valley Chardonnay ($56) A huge, unctuous Chardonnay that is nicely balanced despite its rich butter, tropical fruit, caramel apple and toffee aromas and flavors. Touches of citrus add to the clean finish. 2002 Patz & Hall Woolsey Road Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($38) Big, rich and juicy, with aromatics and flavors of lemon blossom, tropical fruit, ripe pear and apple plus a hint of hazelnut and toast. Excellent balance. 2002 Sebastiani Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($30) Strikes an ideal balance of ripe apple, pear and honeydew flavors with toasty oak and vanilla. Refreshing acidity. 2001 Sebastopol Vineyards Morelli Lane Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($40) Toasty, mineral nose leads to an apple, melon, lemon and dried apricot palate. Slick texture has acidity to balance it. 2002 Shafer Red Shoulder Ranch Carneros Chardonnay ($38) Has lovely aromas of green apple, lemon-lime, hazelnut and toast, with hints of vanilla. The palate is loaded with citrus, peach, lime and toffee flavors, with some minerality on the long finish. Top-notch. 2002 Sullivan Birney Sonoma Mountain Chardonnay ($30) A heavier style, with caramelized banana, apple, pear and cinnamon flavors and some sweetness on the long finish. Good balance. 2002 Sullivan Birney Sonoma Coast Chardonnay ($27) Meyer lemon, tropical fruit, butterscotch, apple and ripe pear aromas and flavors finish with baking spice complexity. Crisp acidity. 2001 Trellis Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($25) Made in a Chablis style, with peach, melon, ripe pear and citrus aromas. Delicately balanced, elegant and minerally on the finish.

Viognier 2003 Field Stone Staten Family Reserve Alexander Valley Viognier ($20) Textbook Viognier, with a honeysuckle nose and flavors of nectarine, peach, apricot and kiwifruit with citrus notes. Long finish and wonderful balance. 2002 Incognito Lodi Viognier ($20) Aromas and flavors of honeysuckle, nectarine, sweet peach, pear and spice. Weighty but not dense; elegant and long. 2001 Rosenblum Ripken Ranch Vineyard Lodi Late-Harvest Viognier ($15) A full-bodied, viscous dessert wine with a floral, tropical fruit nose and flavors of honey and pineapple. Long, smooth finish ends on a sweet rather than crisp note.

Other Whites/Rose 2002 Navarro Anderson Valley Gewurztraminer ($16) Aromas and flavors of rose petal, honeysuckle, peach pit, mineral and spice are carried by a crisp, clean palate. Moderately rich and juicy. 2003 Robert Hall Paso Robles Rosé de Robles ($14) Fresh, clean, appealing strawberry and raspberry aromas with similarly inviting flavors. Smooth, pleasing texture and weight with good acidity. 2003 Robert Sinskey Carneros Vin Gris of Pinot Noir ($16) More substantial than it looks, with pretty aromas of citrus and peach. Manages to have good weight and fruit without being heavy. Graceful, crisp and dry. 2003 Saxon Brown Casa Santinamaria Sonoma Valley Semillon ($20) Made from 75-year-old vines, this unoaked wine is lively and at the same time rich with mouthwatering tropical fruit, pear and citrus flavors. Red Wines Pinot Noir 2002 Amity Sunnyside Vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($30) Pretty nose of raspberry, wild strawberry, straw and earth; concentrated raspberry, cassis, spice and mineral flavors. Long and balanced. 2002 Broadley Vineyards Estate Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($25) Exotic, dusty, wild berry nose with violets, camphor and spice. The flavors are of juicy cranberry, blackberry, dried cherry plus cocoa, with lively acidity and a persistent finish. 2001 Domaine Serene Evenstad Reserve Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($47) Shy plum nose leads to a luxurious mouthful of raspberry, black cherry, spice, vanilla and toast. Round, elegant and with gentle tannins. 2002 Etude Carneros Pinot Noir ($40) Dusty, deep red fruit, black olive and tea-leaf nose leads to similar flavors plus cherry cola, earth and tobacco; nicely balanced with an elegant finish. 2001 Gary Farrell Star Ridge Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($40) Smooth and seamless, with silky texture and flavors of cola, Bing cherry, cassis, cranberry and spice. Bright acidity. 2002 La Crema Carneros Pinot Noir ($25) A dusty, cherry nose leads to rich flavors of currant, blueberry, rose-hip tea, anise and hints of bacon fat. Big and velvety, with balanced acidity and tannins. 2002 Lemelson Resonance Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($35) Fruit-forward style, rich and concentrated with blueberry, strawberry jam, cassis, cedar and hints of baking spice. Creamy vanilla finish. 2001 Lynmar Quail Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($35) Earthy mushroom nose with blackberry jam and cherry pie. Subtle flavors of cherry and earth; a slight brushy character adds complexity. 2002 Merry Edwards Klopp Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($48) Big, dark and powerful, with blackberry and black cherry fruit enhanced by chocolate, anise, leather and tar notes. Firm tannins should smooth out with time. 2001 Merry Edwards Windsor Gardens Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($54) From vines that succumbed to housing development in 2003, this hedonistic, silky-textured wine is aromatic and rich in black-fruit and briar character. 2002 Migration Anderson Valley Pinot Noir ($26) Smooth and elegant, with aromas and flavors of truffle, strawberry and cassis with some plum, tar and smoky bacon character. 2002 Pisoni Estate Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir ($60) A big, bold and spicy wine with aromas of rose petal, berry and earth. On the palate, there is sweet, ripe black cherry and plum fruit, anise and black pepper, with velvety tannins and a long finish. Exceptional. 2002 Rex Hill Vineyards Dundee Hills Cuvee Oregon Pinot Noir ($29) Blackberry pie, Bing cherry, vanilla and barnyard nose with flavors of black cherry, blueberry, plum, baking spice and cola. Soft and juicy. 2002 Roar Rosella's Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir ($44) Packed with ripe red cherry and berry fruit and enhanced by notes of black pepper, licorice, toasty oak and vanilla, with a soft yet lingering finish. 2001 Robert Stemmler Nugent Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($32) Aromas of red cherry, loam and sandalwood are followed by black fruit, vanilla cola, cooked plum, strawberry and cherry flavors. Plush tannins; silky and elegant. 2002 Testarossa Garys' Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir ($49) Has finesse and wonderful texture, with up-front blackberry and plum fruit and background touches of mocha, vanilla and baking spice. Syrah 2001 Beckmen Estate Santa Ynez Valley Syrah ($25) Has meaty, berry-fruit aromas with vanilla-oak inlay, and an intense black-fruit and black-spice palate. 2001 Bedford Thompson Santa Barbara County Syrah ($25) Rich and concentrated, with a classic bacon-fat nose to go with flavors of berry, chocolate and spice. Chewy mouthfeel and firm tannins. 2001 Chateau Ste. Michelle Reserve Columbia Valley Syrah ($29) Sweet, ripe black fruit, vanilla and smoked meat aromas and flavors, with notes of leather, earth and anise. A balanced, Rhonelike wine. 2002 Columbia Crest Columbia Valley Reserve Syrah ($30) Nose of wild berry, cocoa and vanilla; lush, velvety mouth-coating fruit with blackberry, licorice, baking spice and meat flavors. Fresh finish. 2002 Covey Run Washington State Syrah ($9) Outstanding value. Violet, ripe blackberry, black-cherry nose with hint of Asian spice; dense cranberry and blueberry flavors; textured with firm tannins. A panel favorite based on price. 2001 Dutton-Goldfield Cherry Ridge Vineyard Russian River Valley Syrah ($35) Full-flavored, complex and bright, with cedar, anise and pencil shaving notes underlying lush blackberry, mulberry and cherry flavors. Silky texture. 2002 Forgeron Cellars Columbia Valley Syrah ($29) Toasty nose with smoky meat, earth and mineral notes; blackberry, plum, licorice, dried herb and spice flavors. Finishes with sweet vanilla oak and firm acidity. 2001 Frei Brothers Reserve Russian River Valley Syrah ($24) Has smoky, meaty aromas and flavors of blackberry, blueberry, tobacco, leather and black olive. Plush and with lots of wood extraction. 2002 Jade Mountain Napa Valley Syrah ($28) Sweet, ripe aromas and dense flavors of blackberry, black currant, vanilla and cinnamon toast; supple tannins and fine texture. 2002 L'Ecole No. 41 Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley Syrah ($37) Dark berry, smoke, leather and toasty nose; lush blueberry, blackberry, earth, tobacco and spice flavors. Elegant structure with a long finish. 2002 Lost Canyon Alegria Vineyard Russian River Valley Syrah ($32) One of the best Syrahs of the year, although with very limited production. It has an extracted palate of cherry, cassis, blackberry, tar, black olive, earth and anise, supple mouthfeel and elegant structure. 2002 Novy Page-Nord Vineyard Napa Valley Syrah ($32) A powerful yet balanced Syrah with deep blackberry, black cherry and plum fruit plus mocha and black-spice notes. Smooth, mouth-filling finish. 2001 Signorello Napa Valley Syrah ($32) Deep and dark with cigar box, spice, leather, toast, cassis, blackberry, cherry and cassis notes. Texture has a stony quality. Complex and balanced. 2002 Tamarack Cellars Columbia Valley Syrah ($24) Chocolate-covered cherry, baked plum, anise, cinnamon, butterscotch, toast, roasted coffee and earth aromas and flavors. Nice price. 2002 Three Rivers Columbia Valley Syrah ($24) Violet, blackberry, cherry and tobacco nose; juicy blueberry, plum, black pepper and spice flavors on a firmly tannic frame. Lingering finish. 2002 Three Rivers Boushey Vineyard Yakima Valley Syrah ($39) More complex than the wine above, with aromas of violet, blackberry and anise and flavors of black fruit, red cherry, anise, five-spice and black pepper. Chewy texture, mouthwatering acidity. 2001 White Oak Napa Valley Syrah ($24) Inky and meaty, with blackberry, toast and tar aromas and blueberry, spice and tobacco flavors with integrated tannins. Intense, long finish. Zinfandel 2002 Amphora Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel ($22) Great nose of perfect Zin fruit; cherry, framboise, blueberry, spice and vanilla. Long, smooth finish. A panel favorite. 2002 C.G. Di Arie Shenandoah Valley Zinfandel ($25) Attractive blackberry, raspberry and cocoa nose with juicy raspberry, citrus peel, cherry and vanilla cola flavors. Good balance and structure. 2001 De Loach Russian River Valley Zinfandel ($20) Ripe dark berry, red cherry, cassis and touch of cranberry, with hints of vanilla and toast. Jammy, ripe and luscious. 2002 Passalacqua Old Vine Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel ($29) Spicy, candied raspberry nose; pomegranate, raspberry and a touch of spice on palate; big, portlike yet balanced. 2002 Ravenswood Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel ($15) Juicy cooked boysenberry, blackberry, earth, coffee and black pepper aromas and flavors; concentrated; coating tannins. 2002 Renwood Sierra Series Sierra Foothills Zinfandel ($10) Soft on the entry with cherry and wild-berry flavors; hefty and sturdy with oak tannins, yet easy-drinking. Excellent value. 2002 Ridge Lytton Springs Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel ($30) Old Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Carignane vines produce this intense, full-bodied wine loaded with black plum, black pepper and briary character. Rich and polished. 2002 Rosenblum Rockpile Road Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel ($26) Sweet, aromatic black plum, berry and smoky bacon nose; lush, creamy middle with lots of blueberry, raspberry, vanilla and spice. Merlot 2001 Cosentino Reserve Napa Valley Merlot ($38) Vanilla, toast, black plum, licorice, menthol and herbal aromas lead to similar flavors. Ripe and intense, with good concentration and firm tannins. Age-worthy. 2001 Flora Springs Napa Valley Merlot ($24) A crowd-pleasing style, juicy and soft as Merlot should be. Ripe black cherry, plum, tar, black pepper, herb and olive aromas and flavors are backed by gentle tannins. 2001 L'Ecole No. 41 Columbia Valley Merlot ($32) Rich, structured and oozing with black cherry and blackberry fruit, with hints of menthol, earth, cola and mocha. Nicely oaked. 2001 Pepper Bridge Walla Walla Valley Merlot ($45) Refined and elegant, with whiffs of toast, mint, violet and geranium leaf and flavors of ripe black cherry, blueberry, raspberry and cocoa. 2002 Rosenblum Russian River Valley Merlot ($20) An elegant wine with complex aromas and flavors of violet, raspberry, blackberry, plum, cassis and pencil shavings. Ripe and round. 2001 Rutherford Hill Napa Valley Merlot ($25) Ripe and juicy berry aromas and flavors gain complexity from notes of black pepper, coffee, tar and earth. Round body, full tannins and coating oak. 2001 Sandhill Red Mountain Merlot ($20) Terrific value for Washington Merlot, with complex aromas and flavors of black cherry, red currant, baking spice, coffee bean, caramel and earth. Crisp acidity. 2001 Shafer Napa Valley Merlot ($39) Blackberry, plum, currant, cherry and vanilla notes plus molasses, sweet spice and black-tea aromas and flavors. Wonderful balance and use of oak. 2001 Woodward Canyon Columbia Valley Merlot ($33) A panel favorite. Very toasty nose with complex blackberry, blueberry, vanilla, black pepper, mocha, toffee and tobacco aromas and flavors. Gorgeous fruit; long and lush. Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Duckhorn Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($80) Dusty nose of sweet fruit (black cherry, blackberry) with black tea and eucalyptus; big oak and vanillin with framboise, red currant, chocolate, baking spice and dill notes. Opulent style. 2001 Eponymous Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($50) Deep and complex, with black cherry and hints of licorice and black olive. Firm structure suggests aging potential. From Robert Pepi the man, not the brand. 2001 Hewitt Vineyard Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon ($75) A rich, complete wine with cassis and black-cherry flavors and complexity from cocoa, menthol, dried herbs and dark chocolate. The slightly dusty tannins are typical of Rutherford Cabernet. Stellar. 2001 Merryvale Beckstoffer Vineyard X Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon ($75) Supple and polished, with ripe black cherry and cassis aromas and flavors supplemented by vanilla, toast, black olive and slight forest-floor character. Velvety tannins. 2001 Sebastiani Cherryblock Centinaio 100th Anniversary Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($75) Gorgeous, fresh black cherry, plum and blueberry fruit is wrapped in polished tannins. Long, silky finish. 2001 Sebastiani Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($28) Supple and smooth, offering black cherry, cassis and plum flavors made more complex by hints of herb, chocolate and creamy vanilla. An excellent Cab for the price. Other Reds 2001 Beckmen Estate Santa Ynez Valley Grenache ($22) Violet, plum, black cherry and toast nose; syrupy cassis, licorice, tart cherry and chocolate flavors. Very complex. 2002 Hahn Estate Central Coast Meritage ($18) Great value for a Bordeaux-style red, with plump, juicy black cherry and blackberry fruit, spice, cocoa and forest floor character and substantial yet supple tannins. 2000 Lancaster Estate Alexander Valley Red Wine ($65) A wonderful blend, with black cherry, raspberry, some red fruit and coconut aromas and flavors. Black pepper, spice and pencil-lead notes. Muscular, complex and balanced. 2000 Signorello Padrone Napa Valley Red Wine ($75) Vanilla and oak leap from the glass, plus pencil shavings and old leather; lush dark berry, blueberry, cassis fruit flavors. Balanced acidity. 2000 Trentadue La Storia Alexander Valley Meritage ($45) Dark fruit (black plum, cassis, blackberry) plus fig, cola, coffee and dusty leather. Judiciously oaked and with good acidity.

Tasting panelists contributing to this list include: Rusty Albert, co-owner, Wine Impression, San Francisco; Jeff Anderson, wine buyer, the House Restaurant, San Francisco; Lynne Char Bennett, staff writer/wine coordinator, The Chronicle; Nicole Burke, sommelier and wine director, Viognier Restaurant, San Mateo; Mulan Chan, wine director, Bambuddha Lounge, San Francisco; Jerry Cooper, account manager, the Estates Group, San Francisco; Sean Crowley, wine director and sommelier, Aqua, San Francisco; Andrew Green, wine and spirits director, the Village Pub, Woodside; Chuck Hayward, wine buyer, the Jug Shop, San Francisco; John Hulihan, director of beverage and service, Lark Creek Restaurant Group; Denise Johnson, general manager, Napa Valley Winery Exchange, San Francisco; Rick Jones, wine consultant, Fairfax; Ken McDonald, owner-wine buyer, Friendly Spirits, San Francisco; Linda Murphy, wine editor, The Chronicle; Alan Murray, sommelier, Masa's, San Francisco; Greg O'Flynn, owner, California Wine Merchant, San Francisco; Susan Pey, consulting wine director, Il Fornaio Restaurants, San Anselmo; Steve Pitcher, wine writer and president of the San Francisco Bay Area chapter of the German Wine Society, San Francisco; Chaylee Priete, wine director, Greens Restaurant, San Francisco; Rob Renteria, sommelier, Bacar, San Francisco; Lisa Robins, manager, Aqua, San Francisco; Craig Sandler, wine consultant, San Francisco; Rom Toulon, sommelier, Four Seasons Hotel, San Francisco; Oscar Val Verde, wine consultant, San Francisco; Wilfred Wong, eCommerce cellarmaster, Beverages & More, San Francisco.

Sonoma-Napa News

Sonoma's highly touted (Food & Wine ) La Poste French restaurant, located almost next to the post office on Broadway closed in December, after trying Wednesday locals deals with owner Rob Larman's finest cuisine going for $10.95 per person. Rob claims to be looking for a larger site in the Napa Valley.

Barely vacant a minute, the space has been filled with 599 Thai Cafe (it's at 599 Broadway), opened by Sunee who started E-Saan Than Restaurant in Boyes Hot Springs, the latter frequented by Bruce Cohn of B.R. Cohn Winery and Olive Oil, and manager of the Doobie Brothers and Night Ranger.

Sonoma Saveurs on First Street West combined efforts with Gary Edwards of Sage Marketing and Slow Food Sonoma and Ditty Vella of The Cheesemaker’s Daughter to offer a very special tasting of rare French cheeses, which we will all be able to taste in her shop in August or September. Gary is the energy behind the Sonoma Slow Food movement and garden behind Aphrodite on East Napa.

Speaking of The Cheesemaker’s Daughter, Café LaHaye chef and co-owner John McReynolds and Andy Weinberger of Readers’ Books stopped me in the midst of jaywalking across East Napa Street to implore me to try the Greek yoghurt ($1.99) at The Cheesemaker’s Daughter, which Andy had just risked his life to run get for his lunch. This thick, creamy yoghurt is anything but plain, and comes in a plastic container with its own little sidecar container of Greek honey. Grab a plastic mini-spoon from the counter and you can enjoy heaven on the sidewalk!

The Red Grape on First Street West, just below Napa Street has a new menu, with some new salads just under $10, and more superb sandwiches, with my personal favorite coleslaw in town, enhanced with top ramen noodles and sliced peanuts. Owners Sam and Carol Morphy are well known for holding lots of community benefits. Their clam chowder is thick and gooey and will settle many internal upsets!

Mayo Family Winery took over the Buena Vista Winery tasting space in The Corner Store July 2nd…Mayo president Jeff Mayo has installed Tamara Nunley, former manager of the former Sebastiani on the Square, as Mayo tasting bar manager….the Tasting Menu costs $5 for a chance to taste some of Mayo’s prize-winning wines, including its 2001 Merlot, Laurent Vineyard, its 2001 Napa River Ranch Vineyard 2001, 2002 Ricci Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel, and 2002 Syrah.

If rising prices are slowing down your regular visits to some Sonoma restaurants, venture out to Agua Caliente and try Taqueria la Hacienda just north of Andy’s Liquors on the west side of Highway 12. Chili rellenos are roasted here fresh to order; enchiladas, tacos, and tostadas offer many choices of roasted veggies or grilled, marinated, and pulled pork, beef, or chicken. The marinated pork and beef are out of sight! All of the above run from $1.95-$5.75 for small combinations, and the seafood stew and carne asada, both at $9.50, are worth a try.

girl & the fig owner Sondra Bernstein and Sonoma native and Executive Chef John Toulze lit the culinary fires at Texas’s Central Markets cooking it off in San Antonio, Houston, Dallas, and Fort Worth. Their $60 show menu included grilled fig salad, grilled Mahi Mahi, basil-scented potato cakes, Sonoma County cheese course and lavender crème brulee. Fortunately, customers can try the entire menu at girl & the fig on the northwest corner of Sonoma's historic Plaza.